Two Wheels and the French Way of Life

“September is one of my favourite months in France. After surviving the heat, the holiday traffic and the annual invasion of sunburnt visitors, we can finally breathe again.

The mornings are fresh, the afternoons warm, and la rentrée has happened – the kids are back at school. This means the roads are quieter and France seems to exhale.

It’s the perfect time to get on a bicyclette.

A Very ‘French’ Invention?

Actually, the French didn’t invent the bicycle. Karl von Drais, a German gentleman, created the draisienne, an early two-wheeled machine, in 1817. But France played a crucial part in turning the idea into something recognisably bicycle-shaped.

In the 1860s, French inventor Pierre Michaux and his son Ernest are credited with developing the pedal-driven vélocipède, although Pierre Lallement also has a strong claim to the invention. Whatever the precise history, France was soon caught up in vélocipédie fever.

Then came the Tour de France...

The first Tour took place in 1903, dreamed up by Henri Desgrange, editor of the sports newspaper L’Auto. The idea was to boost his newspaper’s circulation and steal attention from rival publication Le Vélo. Sixty riders tackled six stages and 2,428 kilometres, with French chimney sweep Maurice Garin taking the overall victory.

Not bad for a newspaper promotion!

More than a century later, the Tour has become one of the world’s great sporting spectacles. But the French enthusiasm for cycling long predates it.

Cycling Traditions

In rural France, bicycles were once everyday transport. A friend of ours, Camille, remembers cycling to school with her friends as a child. Adults and children – it was an accepted form of transport. 

Their farmer neighbour even attached a little trailer to his bicycle, in which his wife sat while he cycled them both to work in the fields. Think of those quintessentially French images of farmers with a string of onions around their necks, and you have the idea.

Later came the Mobylette and the Solex – bicycles with tiny two-stroke engines that made hills considerably easier. Both have since gained cult status, with modern versions enjoying something of a revival. Sports shops, big hypermarchés and leisure outlet stores - you’ll likely find one for sale.

And today? According to France’s 2024 national cycling survey, 35% of French people cycle at least once a month, while almost a quarter cycle at least weekly. France Vélo Tourisme now lists more than 30,000 kilometres of signposted cycle routes. It’s a huge thing here.

Where to Ride?

From benign trails to testing terrain, France has you covered. La Loire à Vélo follows the Loire through château country, vineyards and riverside scenery. La Vélodyssée traces the Atlantic coast, while ViaRhôna follows the Rhône from the Alps towards the Mediterranean. For a mix of history and countryside, La Véloscénie links Paris, Versailles and Mont-Saint-Michel.

But for us here in Occitanie, some local favourites stand out.

The Canal des Deux Mers

The Canal du Midi is part of the magnificent Canal des Deux Mers à Vélo, which runs for around 750 kilometres between Royan and Sète. The route links the Atlantic and Mediterranean via the Gironde estuary, the Canal de Garonne and the Canal du Midi.

The Toulouse-to-Sète section is particularly appealing for leisurely cyclists: water, plane trees, locks, vineyards, historic towns and – importantly – considerably fewer mountains than you might encounter elsewhere in France.

Along the way, you can detour to the medieval fortress city of Carcassonne, stop in Castelnaudary for a bowl of cassoulet, marvel at the staircase of locks at Fonseranes near Béziers, and finish beside the Thau Lagoon at Sète with oysters as your reward. It’s our kind of exercise.

Another regional option is La Véloccitanie, which incorporates the Passa Païs greenway and links the Lauragais with the landscapes of the Haut-Languedoc and the vineyards of Hérault. Parts of the route follow a former railway line, giving cyclists the chance to travel through valleys, forests and wine country without having to share the road with quite so many cars.

Handy Tips for Cycling Holidays

Look out for the Accueil Vélo sign. It identifies businesses specially equipped to welcome cyclists, with facilities such as secure bike storage and practical cycling information.

For train journeys, check the arrangements before setting off. France Vélo Tourisme provides dedicated train-and-bike information, making it much easier to combine cycling with rail travel.

And download your route before you leave. The France Vélo Tourisme website offers route planning, downloadable GPX tracks and information about accommodation and services along the way.

Anything Goes

Whether you’re a pro cyclist or first-timer, anything goes here. You don’t need to squeeze into Lycra and acquire a bicycle with ridiculously skinny tyres. A comfy bike, safety kit, and bottle of water will do just as nicely.

September really does offer that tempting combination: warm sunshine, fresher air, quieter roads and a France that feels a little more peaceful. And if you happen to finish your ride beside a village café with a cold drink at Apéro time, well, that’s not exercise failure.”

“That’s cycling the French way.”

Thank you, Beth, for your wonderful seasonal contribution! Cycling truly is one of the most delightful and healthy ways to discover France.

If cycling isn’t your thing, don’t worry; countless miles of walking trails, known as GRs, offer another way to explore the country’s diverse landscapes and charming regions.

For more news and stories about living on a large country estate in beautiful southwest France, take a moment to explore Beth’s lovely website and her best-selling books, which are mostly about four-legged friends of all kinds and sizes!

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