The Joy of Supermarket Shopping in France
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If you’ve ever thought of grocery shopping as a chore, endless aisles and the same snacks, then you haven’t experienced a French hypermarché. Food shopping when you’re living in France isn’t just an errand; it’s an adventure and a test of willpower.
That’s why I’m excited to pass to our resident expert in beautiful France, Beth, who loves to dive into French supermarkets, where cheese aisles are long, wine selections stellar, and the boulangerie derails even the most disciplined list. Over to you, Beth!
“I don’t know about you, but I’m not usually a fan of food shopping. The prospect of slogging up and down endless featureless aisles used to feel pretty bleak – until France changed everything. Amazingly, for me, I even look forward to these excursions. And my personal favourite is Leclerc – the supermarket chain of stores that sprang from humble beginnings.
Édouard Leclerc
Strange but true, France’s biggest food retailer started life in a draughty little shed in Brittany. In 1949, Édouard Leclerc, a young seminarian, swapped holy orders for a life in retail. He opened a tiny grocery shop in Landerneau (Finistère) with the support of his wife, Hélène. He began simply: biscuits, oil, soap, the everyday staples. But he had one radical idea: cut out the intermediaries, buy straight from producers, and pass the savings to customers.
Soon, other shopkeepers joined him. Rather than build a traditional chain, Leclerc created a cooperative – a family of independent store owners flying under the same banner. Their combined strength helped reshape France’s price-fixing laws, lowering petrol prices (though they lost out on book sales). Fast-forward sixty-odd years, and that little shed has become a nationwide, much-loved grocery giant.
Which Supermarket?
Grocery outlets range from the small, nip-in, express types to sprawling hypermarkets, the latter typically exceeding a surface area of 2,500 sqm. These vast stores offer everything from food (including international sections) to electronics, clothing, and household appliances.
As for which to choose, everyone here has a favourite and will travel farther to shop rather than settle for the nearest option. And there are key differences. The three leading chains are currently E.Leclerc, Les Mousquetaires (which encompasses Intermarché and Netto), and Carrefour.
If price is a primary concern, Leclerc generally offers the best value. For a more community-focused experience with a strong emphasis on locally sourced products, Intermarché is a solid choice. Carrefour provides a diverse shopping experience with competitive pricing. It depends on what matters most to you as a shopper.
My Love of Leclerc
I’ve tried the others, but Leclerc still hits the spot, and our store is sparkly clean and bursting with bonhomie.
The moment I wheel my trolley through the automatic doors, my senses are assaulted by the tempting sight of this week’s special offers and irresistible wafts of freshly baked, butter-rich croissants, nestled beside banks of baguettes. A little farther and a pungent Roquefort beckons from the fromagerie. This is the place that offers something for everyone – and that tends to be my downfall.
Every week, I set out with noble intentions – just the essentials, obviously, a fresh baguette, and more flour. Within minutes, E.Leclerc has other plans.
The cheese selections grab me first; there’s so much choice. Three long aisles, shelves on either side bursting with offerings, carefully ordered by type and region. Then there’s the long counter containing wheels and blocks of cheese groaning under their weight, manned by specialist fromagers.
There’s always an amicable queue at our cheese counter. It’s often a blessing, giving the shopper time to browse. Ours is a cornucopia: soft goat cheeses rolled in herbs, Bries that sigh when sliced, wedges of nutty Comté begging for a glass of white, and blues with a delicious tang that lingers.
Eyeing my indecision, the fromager makes everything worse by offering palate-teasing free samples. Frankly, it’s agony – usually ending with a new gourmet delight ending up in my trolley. This section also happens to sit beside the charcuterie and artisan butcher: the source of yet more unplanned buys, especially in the summer when buying meat for al fresco barbecues.
My Real Undoing: The Pâtisserie
To appreciate the range of breads that exist, one really must go to France, and Leclerc seems to stock most. As for the pastries, all it takes is a glance, and my not-so-steely resolve melts. Éclairs, millefeuilles, dainty mousse cups – each a tiny work of art. But the fruit tartelettes are my greatest weakness: crisp shells, silky custard, jewel-bright fruit glistening under a glaze. I always promise myself I’ll share, but let’s be honest… at least one never makes it home.
And Then There’s the Wine
Arranged by colour, subcategorised by region and stocked by value, the organisation of these wines rival a library’s Dewey Decimal system.
Rows upon rows of bottles – cheerful everyday reds to Sunday-lunch showstoppers – those are the beauties displayed in special cabinets. I tell myself it’s research, naturally. After all, how could anyone write about France without sampling its liquid treasures? And just when I think I’ve escaped with a modest couple of bottles, this time of year ruins my best intentions with the Foire Aux Vins.
Wine Fair Season
Founded in Brittany, this now national event was Édouard Leclerc’s brainchild. His goal? Make fine wines accessible to all. The Wine Fair democratises fine wines by offering them at lower prices.
This year, the fair begins on September 20th. An ample space at the front of our store is cleared and filled with stacks of wine cases. Specialists and sommeliers are on hand to advise clients, and bargains are plentiful. It’s an education, and I always end up investing in something new.
With so much variety, such an appreciation for quality and the French love affair with food, it’s no wonder these supermarkets are so alluring. Unsurprisingly, these days, my weekly shopping trip to our store is an absolute pleasure.”
Thank you, Beth, for this mouthwatering tour of France’s supermarkets, where even a simple shopping trip feels like a gourmet adventure. For more insights into life in southwest France, explore her best-selling books, and stay tuned for our latest guides and tips on everything from property hunting to perfecting your apéro spread.
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